FAVORITE DOG TREAT RECIPES

  

Cheese Balls

Submitted by Kellyann Conway of Florida

1 cup cheddar cheese, grated
1 cup cottage cheese
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1 cup whole wheat flour
1 / 3 cup chopped nuts

Preheat oven to 400 degrees. In a bowl, mix the cheddar cheese and cottage cheese, then add the vegetable oil and Worcestershire sauce. Very slowly, mix in the flour. Mix until you see that the dough can easily be molded. Divide the dough into bite-sized balls about the size of a marble, then roll the balls in the chopped nuts. Arrange the balls on a cookie tray.

Bake for about 20 minutes or until cheese balls are golden brown. Make sure they are completely cool before giving them to your pooch, and store any leftovers in a covered container in the fridge.

Super Simple Yum Drops

Submitted by Kristi Simmons of Texas

An easy micro waveable treat for busy people who still want to cook for their furry companions!

3 jars baby food meat (or vegetables)
1-½ cup wheat germ (or cream of wheat)
1 egg

In a bowl, combine all ingredients and mix well.

For the micro wave: Drop by spoonfuls on a wax paper covered plate and cover with wax paper. Cook on high in micro wave for 5 to 8 minutes or until treats are formed and firm.

For the oven: Drop by spoonfuls on a nonstick cookie tray. Bake at 300 degrees for about 50 minutes.

Let cool completely before giving them to your pup. Store in refrigerator in an airtight container.

Editor's Note: Read the label of the baby food jars to be sure the contents don't contain garlic, garlic powder, or onion powder, which can be toxic to dogs.

Liver Snaps
Submitted by Kellyann Conway of Florida

1 pound chicken livers
1 cup whole wheat flour
1 cup corn meal
1 egg

Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Put the chicken livers in a blender and liquefy them. Add the egg and blend for another minute. Pour the mixture into a bowl. Add the flour and corn meal and mix well. Spray a cookie sheet with some non-stick cooking spray and pour the mixture onto it. Using the tip of a butter knife, lightly score the surface in a square pattern to make it easier to cut after baking.

Bake for 15 minutes. Cut into small squares while still warm. For safe storage, put them in a resealable container and keep them in the freezer.

Shredded Roast Chicken with Stuffing
Submitted by Cary Moran of Pennsylvania

(1) 5 to 8 pound oven roaster chicken
1 sweet potato, cooked and mashed
1 cup oatmeal
6-8 egg shells, boiled, dried, and crushed (to provide bone meal)
1 cup cooked spinach
1 tablespoon rosemary
1 teaspoon sea salt (not table salt)
1 tablespoon dried parsley
1 cup water
(1) 12 ounce can low sodium chicken broth or vegetarian vegetable broth
4 tablespoons of unbleached flour

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Rinse the chicken and pat dry.

To make stuffing: In a bowl, combine mashed sweet potato, oatmeal, dried egg shell, and spinach. Combine rosemary, sea salt and parsley and rub on the chicken. Stuff chicken. Place chicken in a shallow roasting pan with one cup of water and one cup of either low sodium chicken broth or vegetarian vegetable broth, saving four ounces to make a gravy.

Cover with aluminum foil and cook for 1 hour. Remove foil and begin basting every 10 to 15 minutes. Using a cooking thermometer inserted at the thickest part of the chicken, cook until the internal temperature reaches 180 degrees and juices run clear. Let chicken stand for 10 minutes and whisk remaining juices with flour to make a gravy. Scoop out stuffing and set aside.

Once the chicken cools to a comfortable handling temperature, remove chicken from the bones and shred. Mix shredded chicken, stuffing, and gravy and refrigerate in an airtight container. Use it as a topping for dry food, or temporarily as a food replacement.

Fried Rice (For You and Your Dog!)
Submitted by: Eunice Peters of Kansas

2 to 3 cups cut up chunks of any meat (pork and chicken work best)
2 cups cold cooked rice (day- old, stored in refrigerator)
3 eggs
3 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons sunflower oil or safflower oil (for vitamin E)
1 tablespoon dried or fresh parsley
*Optional: Juiced carrots and other assorted veggies. Add 1 to 2 tablespoons before each serving that way the nutrients remain intact and are fresh.
*Optional: Dog vitamins pounded into a powder.

Beat eggs lightly in a bowl and set aside. Heat wok or large pan over medium heat. When oil is hot, add the meat. Cook until almost done (a little pink in middle). Add rice. Stir frequently to avoid food sticking to pan.

When rice is warm, add the eggs, still stirring frequently. When the eggs are almost completely cooked, add soy sauce, parsley, and garlic powder. Stir frequently until dry and somewhat crispy. It should take up to 15 minutes to cook the entire dish. Cool completely before serving. Put mixture in your dog's dish, add the juiced vegetables and vitamins.

"Peamutt" Butter and Pumpkin "Pupcakes"
Submitted by Gina Moultrie of Nevada

2-½ cups water
½ cup canned pumpkin
1 egg (slightly beaten)
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
¼ cup peanut butter (chunky)
3-½ cups whole wheat flour
½ cup oats
1 tablespoon baking powder
½ teaspoon nutmeg
½ teaspoon cinnamon

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a medium bowl, thoroughly mix water, pumpkin, egg, vanilla, and peanut butter. In a large bowl, combine flour, oats, baking powder, nutmeg, and cinnamon. Mix wet and dry ingredients together and stir well. Spoon into a greased mini-muffin pan, making sure each cup is filled completely and piled high. Bake for 35 to 40 minutes or until firm (but not too brown).

Cool completely and store in an open container or paper bag in the refrigerator. Makes 30 mini pupcakes.

Doggone Birthday Cake
Submitted by Jennifer Latshaw of Pennsylvania

1 ½ cups all- purpose flour
1 ½ teaspoons baking powder
¼ cup margarine, softened
¼ cup corn oil
(1) 3 ½ ounce jar strained beef (baby food) or strained chicken
1 cup shredded carrots
3 eggs
2 strips bacon, fried and crumbled, or dog beef jerky
Plain yogurt or cottage cheese for icing.

Preheat oven to 325 degrees. Grease and flour an 8- inch round pan. Cream butter until smooth. Add corn oil, baby food, eggs, and carrots. Mix until smooth. Gradually add flour and baking powder, mixing until smooth. Fold in crumbled bacon (or beef jerky). Pour batter into cake pan. Bake 60 to 70 minutes, depending on your oven-surface of the cake should be springy to the touch. Let cool. Top with plain yogurt or cottage cheese. Refrigerate any remaining portions.

Editor's Note: Read the label of the baby food jars to be sure the contents don't contain garlic, garlic powder, or onion powder, which can be toxic to dogs.

PB and Cheese Biscuits
Submitted by Kellyann Conway of Florida

1 cup flour
1 cup milk
2 tablespoons peanut butter
2 tablespoons grated parmesan cheese (organic, natural, or sugar- free are best for your pup)
1 teaspoon baking powder
1 egg white
1 tablespoon of water

Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. In a bowl, mix the flour and milk until lumpy, then add the peanut butter and water. Mix in the parmesan cheese and then add the egg white. The mixture should have the consistency of pancake batter. Add the baking powder.

Spray a cookie sheet with non-stick cooking spray and spoon the batter onto it in approximately two inch blobs. Bake for about 20 minutes or until biscuits are golden brown. Let them cool and serve 'em up!

   Source: petfinder

DOG PAW PAD INJURIES IN SUMMER HEAT

Hot Pavement Can Burn a Dog's Paws, Causing Injury to Foot Pads. The hot weather poses many dangers to dogs. Most pet owners know that dogs can suffer heat stroke and sunburn, but many overlook paw pad injuries and burns. The summer heat and hot sun means there's serious dangers facing dogs in the summertime. Dogs can develop heat stroke and sunburn in the hot weather, but one danger to dogs that's frequently overlooked is the potential for paw pad injuries and burns from walking a dog on hot pavement or sand.

Summer Paw Pad Injuries

A dog owner could be exposing his/her dog to paw pad injury or severe discomfort from hot pavement or sand on a daily basis without even realizing it!

What's worse, a dog's paw pad injuries are hard to treat. Paw pad cuts, blisters and sores are prone to infection and healing is slow due to the constant pressure placed on the dog's injured paw.

When a dog paw pad injury occurs due to hot pavement or sand, healing can be complicated by the fact that in most cases, all of the dog's pads are injured with burns and sores – it's not a situation where the dog sustains a paw pad injury on just one foot (thereby enabling the dog to limp, which limits pressure to the paw, allowing the dog's pad injury to heal.)

Preventing Dog Paw Injury in the Summer Heat

• Walk the dog in the early morning or evening to avoid paw pad burns. Avoid walking the dog in the heat of the day, when the sun beats down, heating the pavement and sand.
• Walk the dog on the grass. The grass remains cooler than the sidewalk, lessening a dog's chance of paw pad injuries in the summer. This makes a trip to a shady park a good option for an afternoon walk in the summertime.
• Take frequent dog walks on the pavement during cool times of day. This will help toughen a dog's paw pads by promoting the formation of callus. This makes the skin of the dog's foot pads thicker and less prone to injuries like burns and cuts. Dogs who rarely walk on pavement will have more sensitive paw pads and they require more frequent nail clippings, as walking on pavement files the dog's nails.
• Moisturize the dog's paws on a daily basis. Keep a dog's paws well moisturized with Vaseline® or a special paw pad balm or cream, like Musher's Secret®. Moisturizing the dog's paw pads will prevent cracking, peeling and minor pad cuts. These injuries will cause the dog's pads to become more sensitive once healing is complete, so preventing injury is key.

Treating Paw Pad Injuries Like Burns, Blisters and Sores

• Wash the dog's injured paw pad using antibacterial soap like Dial® and rinse thoroughly
• Pat the injured foot with a clean towel to dry the area.
• Pour an antiseptic like betadine (preferred) or hydrogen peroxide over the burned, blistered or cut paw pad and allow the liquid to air dry. (Note: Hydrogen peroxide can damage tissue and delay healing. After the initial cleaning, hydrogen peroxide must be used at half-strength, with 50% water added. This is why betadine is preferred.)
• Apply a generous amount of antibiotic ointment to the site of the dog's foot pad injury.
• Wrap the paw and ankle with rolled gauze. Roll the gauze in a "figure 8" pattern, looping around the paw and ankle to prevent the bandage from slipping off.
• Cover the bandage with a sock, placing a bit of tape around the dog's leg at the sock's ankle to hold the sock in place. The sock will prevent soiling of the foot bandage.
• Bring the dog to the veterinarian for an examination. Antibiotics are often prescribed for a paw pad cut, burn or sore due to the high risk of infection.

Typically, bandaging is not recommended for a dog's injury as the limited air flow can promote the growth of anaerobic bacteria. But paw pad injuries are an exception to this rule, as without a bandage, the injured paw pad will be contaminated with bacteria and irritated by debris.

Paw pad burns and cuts are very prone to infection, so visiting the veterinarian is very important. A more thorough cleaning may need to be performed under anesthesia; removal of dead tissue may also be necessary to allow for healing to occur. Antibiotics are often required for complete healing; a visit to the vet is even more vital when more than one paw is involved, which is often the case with foot pad burns.

In the case of a dog with burns (or other injuries) on more than one foot, pain medication may be prescribed since the dog will be forced to walk on injured paw pads. Burns in particular are very painful.

Source: suite101

DO AL DOGS KNOW HOW TO SWIM?

Dogs are born with strong natural instincts, including barking, digging and being totally lovable to humans. Some people also think that swimming is a skill that all dogs naturally have. Why would they call it the "doggie paddle" unless it was something all canines could do? But swimming isn't necessarily an innate ability for dogs. While many pooches are perfectly amphibious, many of man's best friends tend to sink like a sack of bricks when submerged. For these dogs, keeping their heads above water is about as easy as keeping their noses away from other dog's rear ends. In other words, it's pretty much impossible.

When it comes to swimming, canines generally fall into one of three categories. There are those that can swim, those that can be taught to swim and those that should steer clear of all aqueous environments. Water spaniels, golden retrievers, Irish setters, English setters, and the water-loving Newfoundland fall into the first category -- all excellent swimmers. This is mainly because of their strong limbs, but this ability may also be in their genes. Many were bred specifically to retrieve waterfowl or for water rescue. Each of these dogs has a strong tradition of swimming within the breed and generally enjoys being in water.

At the other end of the spectrum are the low and lovable sturdy breeds like bulldogs, dachshunds and boxers. There simply isn’t enough thrust from their short legs to keep them afloat in aquatic environments. Breeds that have short faces, such as the pug, also have a very hard time swimming since they fatigue easily. Small dogs such as the Maltese and Chihuahua are sometimes good swimmers, but may become easily chilled or frightened in the water, which can increase the risk of drowning.

Some dogs may have the physical capacity to swim, but have a mortal fear of the water nonetheless. These animals tend to panic when submerged. For a dog in water, panic quickly leads to fatigue, which makes drowning much more likely. That spells bad news for you and your pet. When a dog is frightened in the water, he will attempt to climb on top of you, kicking and scratching until you manage to get to land (if you're teaching your dog to swim, bring a pup-appropriate life preserver). An animal's individual temperament is also an important factor in whether he can swim. Some dogs don't even like to go out in the rain, let alone go swimming.

And if your dog isn't a canine version of Michael Phelps, don't despair. You can still enjoy water fun with a land-loving lapdog. Assuming your pet actually enjoys being submerged, there are many different life vests and jackets that can keep your pooch safe and sound in the pool or pond. And for those who prefer to remain dry, there is always a doggie day bed for a snooze at the water's edge.

Source: http://animal.discovery.com/guides/dogs/dog-training/behavior/do-all-dogs-know-how-to-swim.html

HOW TO STOP DOG FIGHTING

All dogs fight at some time or another when confronting each other or even at play when things get a little aggressive. Wayne Hunthausen, D.V.M., an animal behavior consultant in Westwood, Kansas, and also president of the American Veterinary Society of Animal Behavior, says that fighting amongst dogs, while scary to us and harmful to the combatants, is extremely common.

There are many ways to stop these battles or even prevent them all together with proper supervision and a few training techniques. Here are some basic tips to keep your dogs from fighting and hurting each other more than they have to

Distract Them With Water

One strategy that will work in many cases is to dump cold water over the fighting dogs. Even better, if a hose or fire extinguisher is handy, turn it on full blast and direct it towards the fighting dogs. This will often be enough to break their concentration and stop the dog fight.

Sound a Loud Noise

There are air horns designed to send out a noise loud enough to distract dogs that are engaged in a dog fight. You should be able to find one of these handy devices on the internet. If your dogs have a tendency to skirmish or fight, you might want to keep one of these handy. If not, use any means you can to create a noise loud enough to catch their attention.

Grab Them From Behind

This is a more risky means of stopping a dog fight as the dog could whip around and bite you. Grasp the fighting dogs by their tails and pull back in a firm, steady manner until they’re separated. This is by no means a sure method since it can be difficult to get a good grip on a dog that’s engaged in a fight. Or Elevate the hind legs so that the dogs only have their front legs on the ground.  This is to stop dog fighting because it throws the dogs off balance and will help prevent them from attacking you.  Your own dog may be so excited that it will bite you without realizing it.

Wedge Something in Between the Two Fighting Dogs

Some things you can use as a wedge are a metal trash can lid or other flat, sturdy object. It can be a challenge getting the item between them, but if you do, it may be effective in stopping the dog fight.

Once Separated, Move the Dogs to Different Areas

If you can separate the two fighting dogs, immediately move them to areas where they’re unable to see one another in order to prevent another fight from erupting. This is a good time to check for injuries.

Read more: http://therealowner.com/dogs/how-to-stop-a-dog-fight/#ixzz26ptJEssL

SIBERIAN HUSKY'S BODY LANGUAGE

DOMINANCE

Signs of aggression include rising of the heckles (shoulder hair) and rump hair. The dogs lips curl back, and sometimes his ears flatten. He may stand on tip toe. His pupils will be contracted and he will stare unblinkingly at his opponent. An aggressive dog may growl and his teeth may be bared.

A dominant Siberian has a curled tail and his ears are held upright.

SUBMISSION

If a less dominant dog wants to fight back, he pulls the corners of his mouth back until all teeth are bared and his ears go flat. A more submissive dog stands very still. The submissive dog turns his head to one side. Submissive dogs generally assume a lower stance than the dominant dog.

DIFFERENT BEHAVIORS

Circling and sniffing

The universal dog greeting, it starts nose to nose and proceeds to the other end – if not discouraged your husky could do this with humans as well.

Mounting

Mounting another dog or attempting to mount a person is not usually a sexual behavior. It is an indication of dominance, who is higher and who has power over the others.

Pawing

A dog who places his paw on the shoulder of another dog is tying to demonstrate his dominance over that dog. This can also be seen when one dog trys placing his chin over the top of the other.

Bowing

A Siberian who crouches down, wagging his tail quickly, wants to play.

Nudging or punching

A husky who nudges or punches with his nose is trying to get you to play with him. It is more dominant than the bowing motion, in that he is demanding your attention and not asking for it by bowing.

Hand holding

A sign of affection, your husky may take your hand in his mouth holding it gently. He is showing you his affection and asking you to trust that he will not bite you. This is a good bonding strategy and allowing him to do so shows that you have faith in him.

Mouth licking

This is a care-soliciting behavior and is how young puppies seek food from their mothers. The behavior often persists into adulthood.

Licking or tail chewing

This is often a nervous response, however chewing the base of the tail can also mean he has fleas. If licking behaviour continues for weeks with no apparent cause, especially if carried to the point of raw or bleeding paws, suspect obsessive compulsive behavior (just like the disorder in human beings). It is important to discuss this behavior with your Veterinarian.

Head tilting

Generally this quizzical look means he is puzzled or curious about something.

Pawing at his face or rubbing on carpet

This can mean he is just itchy. After a meal huskies will often rub their face against something to clean themselves. Constant rubbing may indicate an allergy.

KNOWING YOUR HUSKY'S TAIL

Siberians generally relax and pull sleds with their tails down. Excitement causes their tails to curl up and a dragging tail means he is tired. When a dog wags his tail, hes giving the same message he does when he smiles (most of the times, sometimes it may be because he is nervous). A slower incomplete wag from an erect tail may indicate dominant aggression. A tail held between the legs is complete submission or fear.

SLEEPING STYLES

Dogs sleep a lot, over 14 hours a day. In cold weather the Siberian does what is known as the Siberian swirl, carefully tucking his tender nose under his furry tail for warmth.

A husky curled snugly close beside you is probably not so much interested in keeping warm (hes hotter than you are) as he is keeping safe. If he’s an alpha dog you may notice that the keeps himself a little distant from you – just a few inches. He wants to be secure, but at the same time he is letting you know that he is perfectly capable of handling anything that comes up.

If your husky prefers to take his ease flat on his back, legs in the air, you may take comfort in knowing that you have supremely confident, friendly dog without a care in the world.

A Siberian laying flat on his stomach, legs sprawled in every direction is probably hot and trying to cool down.

A dreaming dog exhibits the same rapid eye movement found in people, do not disturb a dreaming dog. You may be walking right into his nightmare, the gentlest dog in the world has been known to snap if awakened at the wrong time.

COMMON MYTHS ABOUT DOG

#1 Dogs are Color Blind

The Myth: Dogs only see in black and white.

The Origin: The basis for this myth is not known.

The Truth: Dogs do see in color. However, they see differently than most people do and are less able to distinguish between colors. Veterinary ophthalmologists have determined that dogs see like people who have red/green color blindness. Dogs’ eyes have receptors for blue and green shades, but not for red shades. As a result, it appears that dogs cannot easily distinguish between yellow, green and red, but they can identify different shades of blue, purple and gray. Color is only one of many visual stimuli that dogs detect in their environment. Brightness, contrast, and especially motion, are extremely important to a dog’s interpretation of what it sees.

#2 If a dog’s nose is warm, it means its sick

The Myth: If a dog has a warm, dry nose, it is sick.

The Origin: There is no identifiable origin for this myth. People just seem to think that a dog with a warm and/or dry nose is sick, and that a dog with a cold wet nose is well.

The Truth: If a dog has a dry or warm nose, it means that he has a dry or warm nose. A dry nose or a mildly warm nose has nothing to do with the overall health of a dog.

#3 If a dog is wagging its tail, it is happy

The Myth: A wagging tail means a dog is happy.

The Origin: Most dogs do wag their tails when they are happy. As a result, people associate a wagging tail with a happy dog.

The Truth: In many cases, a dog that is wagging its tail is happy, or at least is expressing excitement or pleasure. Tail-wagging certainly does express a strong state of emotion, much like a smile does in people. However, just like a human smile, a dog’s wagging tail does not necessarily reflect happiness or something positive. Dogs frequently wag their tails when they are agitated, irritated, tense, anxious, annoyed, frightened, angry or aggressive. Interestingly, researchers have found that dogs do not normally wag their tails when they are alone, even if they apparently are happy or are in a pleasant situation. Tail-wagging seems to be a behavior that is reserved for times when the dog is in the company of others.

#4 A dog’s mouth is cleaner than a human’s mouth

The Myth: A dog’s mouth is cleaner than a person’s mouth.

The Origin: Dog saliva was once believed to be antiseptic, and some people still believe it has healing properties. The basis for this belief is not known.

The Truth: A dog’s mouth is not “cleaner” than a person’s mouth. Dog saliva can be toxic to some bacteria, but it carries its own population of bacteria and other infectious organisms. That population is just different from the assortment of bacteria and other “germs” in the human mouth, based largely upon differences in diet. There is a reason for the term, “dog breath.” People with weakened immune systems and young children probably should not have direct contact with dog or cat saliva.

#5 One year of a dog’s life is equal to 7 years of a human’s life

The Myth: Dogs age 7 years for every one human year.

The Origin: The basis for this myth remains a mystery. It probably comes from simple math: an average life span for dogs is 10 to 12 years, and multiplying this by seven equals 70 to 74 years, roughly the average life span for people today.

The Truth: Contrary to popular belief, there is no exact formula to gauge how much a dog develops or ages in comparison to so-called “people years.” Aging is as individual for dogs as it is for people. Taking a dog’s age and multiplying it by 7 is an overly simplistic formula and does not reflect a dog’s actual developmental status. A more accurate rough guide is as follows:

Dog:	Human
1 Year	15 Years
2 Years	24 Years
4 Years	32 Years
7 Years	45 Years
10 Years	56 Years
15 Years	76 Years
20 Years	98 Years

Of course, there is a distinct difference in aging between small dogs and giant breed dogs. Large dogs have a significantly shorter life span than do small dogs. Their development in the early years is about the same as other breeds; however, large and giant breed dogs developmentally are much older than smaller breeds in their later years, starting at about 7 years of age.

#6 You can’t teach an old dog new tricks

The Myth: Old dogs cannot learn new tricks.

The Origin: This myth probably started with someone who wasn’t able to get his older dog to sit, roll over, come or stay. It is one of the most common (albeit false) clichés about domestic dogs.

The Truth: You can teach an old dog new tricks. Dogs can learn new tricks, skills and commands within their physical capabilities until the day they pass away. What’s more, they usually want to learn. Their minds need stimulation, just like ours. With patience, kindness, persistence and consistency, owners can teach their older dogs all sorts of new tricks, such as sit, bark when the doorbell rings, fetch, lie down, roll over, play dead and shake or “high five.” As long as a dog is bright, alert, responsive and healthy, there is no reason that he cannot keep learning new things throughout his life.

#7 Dogs eat grass to throw up

The Myth: Dogs eat grass when they need to vomit.

The Origin: This myth originates from people observing their dogs eating grass and then vomiting.

The Truth: There actually appear to be two distinct types of grass-eating behavior in domestic dogs. Some dogs graze casually, taking only a few nibbles of grass at a time, while others chow down on grass vigorously and with a purpose. Dogs who wolf down their grass tend to vomit it (and other stomach contents) within a matter of minutes. Dogs that graze slowly usually do not throw up. So, eating grass does not necessarily mean that a dog has an upset stomach.

Source: http://www.petwave.com